Jonathan Ray’s review:
There’s the even bigger-boned, brooding 2009 Montefalco Rosso, Rocca di Fabbri, at £13.25, a real treasure rootled out by James Tanner on his travels in Umbria a couple of years ago. The previous vintage was such a success for Tanners that JT promptly snapped up this 2009 too. A blend of 65 per cent Sangiovese, 20 per cent Montepulciano and 15 per cent Sagrantino, it’s cram packed full of rich, spicy, dark cherry fruit and pepper, wrapped in gentle tannins. It’s no shrinking violet at 14.5 per cent alcohol by volume and is best served in decanter, carafe or jug to allow it to flex its muscles. Simon would have called it ‘plumptious’.